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The Barefoot Beekeeper


The Barefoot Beekeeper was the title of my first book, published in 2007. Since then, I have written several more books, aimed at people who want to keep bees in a simple, reasonably natural way, without investing a lot of money and free from the synthetic chemical treadmill.

This podcast is irregular, variable in content and hopefully somewhat useful and interesting to beekeepers of all flavours.

You can find my website at www.biobees.com and you will find me on Facebook and rarely on Twitter.

 

 

 

Apr 3, 2010

Bees are in trouble, and it is mostly because of us. We have destroyed much of their natural habitat, we have poisoned their food and in the case of honeybees, we have used and abused them for our own purposes while not giving enough attention to their needs and welfare.


Honeybees have been evolving for a very long time – the fossil record goes back at least
100 million years – and they became remarkably successful due to their adaptability to
different climates, varied flora and their tolerance of many shapes and sizes of living
accommodation. They became attractive to humans because of their unique ability to
produce useful things, apparently out of thin air: honey, wax and propolis.


Until the nineteenth century, they were kept in pots, skeps, baskets and a variety of
wooden boxes intended more-or-less to imitate their natural habitat of choice, the
hollow tree. With the invention of the 'movable frame' hive, the second half of that
century saw an exponential growth in commercial-scale beekeeping, and by the time
motor vehicles became widely available, beekeeping on a widespread and industrial
scale became a practical possibility.


Since then, bees have been treated in rather the same way as battery hens: routinely
dosed with antibiotics and miticides in an effort to keep them producing, despite the
growing problems of diseases and parasites and insecticide-treated plants that have led
to the emergence of so-called 'Colony Collapse Disorder', especially in the massive bee-
farming operations in the USA.


It doesn't have to be like this. Some beekeepers have realized that, if bees are to
become healthy enough to develop resistance to disease and the ability to adapt to
pests, then they have to be treated differently – and not just by beekeepers.


Here are some things you can do to help the bees:


1. Stop using insecticides - especially for 'cosmetic' gardening.
There are better ways of dealing with pests - especially biological controls. Modern
pesticides are extremely powerful and many are long-lasting and very toxic to bees and
other insects. Removing all unnecessary pesticides from the environment is probably
the single most important thing we can do to help save the bees.
 
2. Avoid seeds coated with systemic insecticides.
Beware - many farm seeds are now coated with Clothianidin and related systemic
insecticides, which cause the entire plant to become toxic to bees and all other insects
that may feed on it. The same coatings may soon appear on garden seeds. Check your
seed packets carefully - and if in doubt, ask the manufacturer for full information.


3. Read the labels on garden compost - beware hidden killers!
Some garden and potting composts are on sale that contain Imidacloprid - a deadly
insecticide manufactured by Bayer. It is often disguised as 'vine weevil protection' or
similar, but it is highly toxic to all insects and all soil life, including beneficial earthworms. The insecticide is taken up by plants, and if you use this compost in
hanging baskets, bees seeking water from the moist compost may be killed.


4. Create natural habitat.
If you have space in your garden, let some of it go wild to create a safe haven for bees
and other insects and small mammals. Gardens that are too tidy are not so wildlife-
friendly.


5. Plant bee-friendly flowers.
You can buy wildflower seeds from many seed merchants, and they can be sown in any
spare patch of ground - even on waste ground that is not being cultivated. Some 'guerilla
gardeners' even plant them in public parks and waste ground.


6. Provide a site for beehives.
If you have some space to spare, you could offer a corner of your garden to a local
beekeeper as a place to keep a hive or two. They will need to have regular access, so
bear this in mind when considering a site.


7. Make a wild bee house.
Providing a simple box as a place for feral bees to set up home is one step short of
taking up beekeeping, but may appeal to those who want to have bees around but don't
want to get involved with looking after them. Ideas for such boxes will be available at
www.friendsofthebees.org


8. Support your local beekeepers.
Many people believe that local honey can help to reduce the effects of hayfever and
similar allergies, which is one good reason to buy honey from a local beekeeper rather
than from supermarkets, most of which source honey from thousands of miles away. If
you can, find a beekeeper who does not use any chemicals in their hives and ask for pure
comb honey for a real treat.


9. Learn about bees - and tell others.
Bees are fascinating creatures that relatively few people take the trouble to understand.
Read a good book about bees and beekeeping, and who knows - you might decide to -


10. Become a beekeeper.
It is easier than you might imagine to become a beekeeper - and you don't need any of
the expensive equipment in the glossy catalogues! Everything you need to keep bees
successfully can be made by anyone with a few simple tools: if you can put up a shelf,
you can probably build a beehive! For details, see http://www.biobees.com